I'll fully admit that this is my initial investigation into the topic, so some of the information may be erroneous or incomplete. I will revise this graphic as I learn more.
I've already developed sort of a technique to weed out interesting and desirable shirts from the rest. If you've checked the clothing rack at your local thrift store, you will no doubt have run into numerous Cooke Street shirts and the like. They aren't bad shirts if you want something to wear (I believe the Cooke Street brand is sold through Costco). But they aren't quite what I'm looking for. Some things to look for include:
Manufacturer's label
- Well known manufacturers (Kramer's, Liberty House, etc.).
- Place of manufacture. Vintage shirts were made mostly in Hawaii, but to an extent in Japan and the Mainland. Shirts made in China, Indonesia, Russia, etc. are likely to be contemporary (note: there are always exceptions!).
- How is the label attached? Fully-sewn in labels tend to be common up to the 1970s. Shirts with the label sewn in on one side (so it is kind of flappy) dates from the 1970s to the present.
- Is there a label or not? If there is a label, does it have text or symbols? Fabric care labels came into use in the early 1960s. Symbols on fabric care labels came into use around the early 1970s.
- Where is the fabric care label located? If the label is attached to the manufacturer's label, it might be from the 1960s to 1970s. Later shirts had the label placed on the inside side seam.
- Number of buttons. Shirts from the 1930s to the early 1950s commonly used three to four. But shirts from the 1930s through the 1970s often used up to five. Contemporary shirts often use six buttons.
- Horizontal button holes are likely before the mid-1960s although they were still used into the 1970s. Vertical button holes are most common today, but have been used since the early days.
- Aloha shirts traditionally have long pointy collars. It was common to see narrow collars on shirts from the 1950s and 60s (similar I suppose to narrow ties and lapels found on men's suits). I've seen smaller collars on shirts from the 1980s as well.
- A number of sites say vintage or at least the best quality shirts have matching pockets (i.e. the pattern of the shirt matches the pattern on the shirt). This doesn't appear to be conclusive one way or another. A web search of photos of vintage Aloha shirts shows there is no consistency. Some shirts do have internal pockets.
- Vintage shirts were made out of silk, rayon, and cotton. Polyester and poly/cotton blends appear to have come into use in the 1970s. The weight and feel of the fabric is important, as some vintage shirts 'feel' old while others don't. Learning more about fabric tactility is a skill I wish to develop further.
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